Admin Czar
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Mentally Exhausted & Socially Indifferent
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Post by Admin Czar on Dec 13, 2018 22:02:44 GMT -7
Blown was kind enough to offer to post his recent experience with tubeless.
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blown240
Mystical Entity's personal assistant
Posts: 48
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Post by blown240 on Dec 14, 2018 9:55:00 GMT -7
Tubeless Tire Conversion!
What is it? Its setting up your bike to not run a traditional inner tube.
Why do it? Several reasons. 1. It all but eliminates flat tires. Ive been running tubeless on my main bike for a few years now, and the only flats I've gotten was when I let the sealant dry out. 2. It completely eliminates pinch flats. You cant pinch a tube if there isn't one in there! 3. It saves weight! This is especially true on Fatbikes where the inner tube can be a couple pounds.
The Down Sides: 1.You need to have nice and supple tires to make work. This means that your going to have to buy more expensive tires. Im my setup here, I tried 72 TPI tires and I could not get them to seal. Then I got the exact same tire in 120 tpi an it sealed right up. 2. There is a bit of maintenance involved. Every 6 months or so, you have to add sealant.
The bike I setup tubeless this time is my Mongoose Beast. I am running 50mm rims, and am using Vee Rubber V8 120 tip tires...
More to follow:
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blown240
Mystical Entity's personal assistant
Posts: 48
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Post by blown240 on Dec 14, 2018 10:39:32 GMT -7
There are a couple different ways to go tubeless. The most common way is to buy an expensive "tubeless ready" rim, and a "tubeless ready" tire. This way works great, but its pricey, and thats not why we are here. The setup I am going to show here is called "Split Tube" or "Ghetto Tubeless". It works great, costs less, and doesn't require a tubeless rim or tire. Although tubeless ready tires setup much easier. Things you'll need: 1. An inner tube thats smaller than the rim you are using. I am using a 20" tube on a 26" rim. This will be used as a rim strip, and seals your rim from air leaks. 2. Some Tubeless tire sealant. This is used to seal any tiny leaks between the rim and the tire. It also acts as a sealant if you get a thorn or other puncture. There are many brands, the most common is called Stans. I am using one called Tire Plasma because it was cheaper. Some even make their own sealant, but thats another topic all together. 3. An air compressor, or another way to inflate a tire fast with a lot of air volume. 4. Not necessary, but really nice, is a large syringe to inject the sealant thru the valve stem.
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blown240
Mystical Entity's personal assistant
Posts: 48
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Post by blown240 on Dec 14, 2018 12:38:49 GMT -7
OK, Lets get started. First get your wheel and put some air in the tube that you plan to use as a rim liner. I like 20" tubes because they are only about 150 grams and stretch over a 26" rim easily. You can also use a 24" tube if you like. The width of your rim will determine what diameter tube to get. On these 50mm wide rims a 1.75/2.1 tube works fine, but if your using a wider rim you will need a bigger diameter tube. If I was doing a 100mm wide rim, I would probably get a 24x4 tube. Just remember that the bigger the tube, the more it will weigh. Next, put the valve stem thru the hole in the rim, and stretch the tube over the rim. Its REALLY REALLY important that the tube isn't twisted at all, so take some time and get the tube nice and straight on the rim, with no twisting. Once the tube is nice and straight you will notice there is a moulded in line that runs the circumference of the rim. Take a razor blade and made an inch long slice along this ridge. Then, with scissors, go ahead and cut the tube all the way around the rim, following this same line. You want the cut nice and straight. Once you get the tube cut all the way around the rim, go ahead and open it up so that it lays over the edges of the rim.
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blown240
Mystical Entity's personal assistant
Posts: 48
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Post by blown240 on Dec 14, 2018 12:53:37 GMT -7
The next step is important. You need to clean all the Talc off the inside of the cut tube. I like to take the tube off and give it a good wash under running water. Once the tube is nice and clean, but it back on the rim and mount your tire. Make sure when you mount your tire, that the cut tube sticks out evenly between the rim and tire all the way around, and on both sides. Now, using a compressor, inflate the wheel. Sometimes it inflates real quick, other times you have to play with it a bit to try to close any gaps between the tire and rim. The tires I used inflate really easily. In this pic, you can see the flap of rubber between the tire and the rim. This is what makes this whole setup work. In this pic, there is no sealant in the tire, and it is holding air fairly well. The next step is too add sealant. I like to pull the valve core and inject the sealant thru the valve using a syringe. You can also unseat a bit of the tire, and dump some sealant in, but you run the risk of moving the split tube, and it can be a pain to get back in the right place. I used about 4 ounces of sealant in this setup. Smaller tires will take less. Also, if your not using a tubeless ready tire, then you need to use more sealant. Non tubeless tires will soak up a good bit of sealant because they are pourous. NOTE: you will need to add an ounce or so of sealant every 3-6 months. This allows some sealant to still be liquid and it will be able to be able plug and punctures you may get. Now that the sealant is in, go ahead and inflate the tire to its max recommended pressure. Now pick up the rim, and shake it a ton, while you turn it around. The goal is to cover all the inside surfaces with sealant. No put the wheel back onto the bike and take it for a ride for about a mile. This will also help distribute the sealant inside. Once you know that everything is sealed up, you can trim off some of the excess on the rubber flap between the tire and tube. I like to wait about a week to do this, and then I like to leave about 1/4 sticking out all around. If you trim it too close, it may loose the seal at lower PSI, and if you ever need to change the tire, you wont be able to reuse the rim strip/split tube. NOTE: if you are running rim brakes, you will need to trim the flap more, so that your brakes work. This setup works best with Disc, or Hub brakes. And now your done!! Time to get out and enjoy not having to worry about flats as much, and enjoy the feeling of less rotating weight on your bike! You will notice that the tires seem to roll better. There is something about not having the tire against tube and any friction there that gives the tires a more smooth feel. Its hard to explain, but you'll probably notice it. Let me know if you have any questions!
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Post by desertbikes on Dec 14, 2018 17:46:40 GMT -7
Excellent post, blown. I may give this another try. Did it a few years ago on a 29er but had too many problems. In retrospect it was probably due to a low TPI count on the tire selection. It also looks like it might even be easier on a fat bike which is one place it would really make a difference. As you pointed out, those can be some heavy tubes & I run sealant in them as well. Thanks!
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Post by lurker on Dec 14, 2018 17:49:06 GMT -7
WOW!
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Post by gonefishin on Dec 17, 2018 8:50:24 GMT -7
Very good instructions!
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Post by lurker on Dec 17, 2018 11:42:02 GMT -7
what's the weight difference between a tube and the sealant? or would you use the sealant anyway, tube or not?
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blown240
Mystical Entity's personal assistant
Posts: 48
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Post by blown240 on Dec 17, 2018 16:03:23 GMT -7
You use the sealant either way, but its pretty light. If you compare the weight of a stock fat bike tube and a 20" box tube with sealant, you probably save a pound per wheel at least.
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Post by lurker on Dec 17, 2018 16:42:55 GMT -7
:thumbup:
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